Trip Report by Kathryn Hjorleifson
Most anglers fishing in Bhutan head to the south to fish Golden Mahseer. However, the trout fishing in the rivers of the central and north regions is wonderful. In my first visit to Bhutan in October 2022 I did fish but caught basically nothing. However, my hopes for better results for this last trip in May 2024 were high. Firstly, I had been fishing more with both a tenkara and a fly rod. During this time I fished with amazing fishers. Second, I determined in 2022 that spin casting was not the way to fish the trout rivers of Bhutan, even though the local fishers do.
For my May 2024 trip I packed two rods – a 6-weight fly rod and reel and a DRAGONtail Mizuchi zx340 zoom tenkara rod with a DRAGONtail Tachi 14’ furled line. Travelling such long distances my gear was limited and this included line and flies. The tenkara rod quickly became the rod of choice.
I fished five rivers in Bhutan: Bey chu in Phobjikha Valley; Chamkhar chu in Bumthang; Tang chu in Tang, Bumthang; Haa chu in Haa Valley; Pa chu in Gunitsawa Valley. The rivers are not big nor wide. They are often fast running with lots of rocks in the center channels. I recorded in my journal each day, and the following are notes. I have included notes fishing with my fly rod, but you will quickly see that it was only effective when tight line nymphing.
May 5, 2024 – Bey chu in Phobjikha Valley
An easy 10 minute walk across a cow pasture to the river. I set up my floating fly line initially with a dry fly and later switched to a wet fly. The tenkara was set up for the guide or driver with a quick lesson. With the fly rod I had a lot of trouble managing the line, ending up with too much line out, running way too fast to set the hook, especially on small trout. The guys do much better with the tenkara. The driver catches the first fish – a small brown trout. It is the first fish he has ever caught, so there is excitement all around! These small (8”-12”) brown trout are real jumpers and easily throw a hook when I just have too much line out and with this current. I do hook into two but I am not able to land them.
We work our way down river before lunch. We have a usual amazing hot Bhutanese lunch and then back to the river farther downstream. There are more small trees close to the banks, and we start to spend time retrieving flies. I finally land my first brown trout of the day. The guide and driver continue to land trout with the tenkara. At the end of the day I spend a very long time trying to catch a fish under the far bank under a grassy overhang. But try as I might I have to leave it for another fisher.
A successful day with all told 8 brown trout landed, all in about 8”-12” size and feisty. Tenkara though is champion.
May 7, 2024 – Chamkhar chu in Bumthang
A bit of a descent through a pine forest to the river in a light rain. In the morning I use my fly rod with a floating line and a wet fly. The tenkara rod is set up with a wet fly. I have the same issue as prior, too much line to control and set the hook in this fast water, though I do land one from under a grassy overhang. This stretch of river is very fast moving and has only one small pool at the top. The guide lands one at the top of the pool on the tenkara. The rain continues and we are off to lunch. After lunch we scout the river and find a much better location with a greater variety of water. This stretch is indeed productive, most especially with tenkara. Having watched the success of tenkara, I switch to tight line nymphing on my fly rod with a beadhead nymph and never look back! Switching to tight line nymphing allows me to slow the rate of drift and hold.
A most successful day with each of us landing half a dozen brown trout. The tenkara outfit once again is so perfect for this river, landing the most fish, and pointing the way for the fly rod.
May 10, 2024 – Tang chu in Tang, Bumthang
A short walk across another cow pasture to a location that does look good. I start the day with the tenkara rod and a small beaded nymph. I use this set up all day, and have a successful day.
The winning technique is to cast upstream directly into the fastest current and let it drift down. It will drift out of the fastest current into a slower current. The fish hit just as the fly leaves the fastest current. It is critical to have just the right size of bead headed nymph. Too light and it will not be far enough down in the water column when it leaves the fastest current and moves into the slower, where the fish hide out. If too heavy it passes through the sweet spot too quickly and likely too low. The current also will decrease lower in the water column, so you want enough weight for the fly to be low in the column just as it comes out of the fastest water.
Fishing still pools has not landed fish. The trout bite mostly in the late morning until about noon. I land four in this time frame. At one point I hook into a larger trout, likely about 16”, but it throws the hook. These fish continue to very feisty. I have also been teased all morning by a fish hiding by a larger rock that’s into some faster water. But try as I might, and even after a good five hits, I cannot hook into this fish!
We have lunch at the archery range (Bhutan’s national sport) under the picnic pavilion to be out of the rain. Back to the river but it’s quiet. I land only 1 more and smaller. It’s been raining steadily now, so time to call it a day. The guide and driver have been staying dry under umbrellas and trees patiently all day. The driver can’t resist a quick half hour with the tenkara rod. Fishing with his umbrella is quite a sight. From my journal, “what an exciting day it has been. I truly feel like a fisher in Bhutan!”
May 15, 2024 Haa chu in Haa Valley
To have both rods in the water today I’m back to the tight line nymphing set up on my fly rod, while the guide and driver are using the tenkara rod. I continue with small beadhead nymphs. My day’s fishing is amazing. I begin in the pool by the bridge again casting into the fastest water. I quickly have five trout landed, still in the 8”–12” range.
We then begin walking upstream stopping at all other likely spots. We enjoy another delicious picnic lunch, one of the true benefits of fishing in Bhutan. I continue after lunch walking upstream looking for fast moving water that leads to slower water, though not calm water. With this combination I usually I land a trout. There’s lots of climbing up and down banks and wading. I cast right to the edge of a very large rock and do indeed land one. At our last good location there is a pool at the far side of the river which we cannot reach with the tenkara rod or the tight line nymphing set up, so I give in, let out some fly line and manage a cast to the far pool and let it drift into faster water. I land two, though with this much line out and drifting so fast, I don’t even know I have the first one on until the driver yells out.
It’s been my best day yet. The driver and guide did not do so well today with tenkara as they were convinced they should use either a dry fly or a wet one, but not a beadhead nymph. I think the fishing guide really just wanted to try out dry and wet flies.
May 24, 2024 – Pa chu in Gunitsawa Valley
This is a bonus day and I fish for just an hour late morning. I am using the tenkara rod with a beadhead nymph, again casting into the fastest water. The bite comes just as the line and fly move into slower water. But slower water is still moving water. We really have had no success in still, or even almost still water.
Fishing in Bhutan requires quite a bit of planning. You will need to check the availability for fishing carefully with your tour operator. There are many restrictions, which include spawning seasons, festival times, holy days, weeks, and months, and country-wide holidays. Your tour operator will need to apply for a fishing permit for each date separately and for each river. When the permit is issued it will be for a very specific stretch of the river and you must be accompanied by a certified fishing guide. Your tour operator will be able to set up all of this. There are tour operators that specialize in fishing tours, but these are almost always for fishing Golden Mahseer and are usually not combined with cultural tours.
As much as I love fishing, I highly recommend that if you travel to Bhutan you combine both a culture tour with fishing. To miss seeing the festivals and monasteries and temples would be such a shame. The Tiger’s Nest climb is amazing!
I left my tenkara rod, tenkara lines, and some flies with my driver in Bhutan. This is equipment that is impossible to buy, and even if it were possible, outrageously expensive. He is friends with the guide and has promised to keep fishing. So, if you fish in Bhutan, and see a couple of locals fishing with a DRAGONtail Mizuchi zx340, say hello to Jamyang or Kinzang from Kathy!
In summary, the rivers of Bhutan are wonderful to fish. They are beautiful. Brown trout are great fun. There are few, if any other anglers; I saw none. The picnic lunches with a quick nap afterward are a bonus. If you ever get to travel to Bhutan do include fishing. Sangay at Holidays Bhutan will set everything up, though you will need to bring your own gear. Sangay@holidays.bt
You may see full details of my 2022 trip at Bhutan30.com
Kathryn Hjorleifson is an avid tenkara and fly fisher living in Powell River, British Columbia that has had the great good fortune to visit Bhutan twice and fish their beautiful rivers.
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WOW! what an adventure. A great dovetailing of Tenkara style and Western style fly fishing as the situation required. Who says you can’t have it both ways. Nice scenery, too.
Cheers!
I love posts like this. And that the tenkara rod was left in the hands of the locals.
Luck you, Kathy. Of all the travel I’ve done, my fave trip ever, hands-down, was eastern Bhutan in February 1998; spent a month there surveying wintering Black-necked Cranes (including in the Phobjikha Valley). Alas, I knew nothing of tenkara then of course! I do recall that one of my Bhutanese colleagues, a devout Buddhist, told me he once caught two trout from a stream, brought them home to eat, and his wife was so angry at his sacrilege (taking a life) that she nearly through him out of the house! I know a lot of spouses can get impatient with their partner’s fishing, but I never heard of it from quite that angle, before or since.
Thanks for the info, very interesting, I am actually planning fishing trip to Bhutan and Northern India. So this was great. Can you share some details how this trip was organized, such as did you use outfitter or did on your own.